Talk-the-Talk: Climbing Part Deux - Places to Climb PDF Print E-mail

 

Talk-the-Talk: Climbing

 

By Chris (I am my own pseudonym) Stevenson

Alright, so now that you've taken the information from the first part and put it to good use and gained a lot of sweet friends and have climbed every day for the last two months… alright, maybe you haven't gained a lot of friends (that's ok, there is still plenty of time) and you haven't been climbing every day like an obsessed freak (me) so, you're still in desperate need of my help. When you start climbing the counter at Wendy's, I will have reached my goal. In Part Deux of my climbing goodness I'm going to tell you the hot spots to climb and when, and also if you happen to be in the Colorado front range area, I'll give you a few spots to hit up. I won't be going over every single climbing area around the front range, but I'll highlight the classic old school ones and the sickest ones to climb.

 

Let's start off with some of the hot spots around the U.S. and maybe, if you're lucky, I'll give you one good place in France to find some of the sickest bouldering, ever. Ok, so right now it's about -95 degrees outside, you think it's a little cold to climb outside then, huh? Well, you're wrong!!! Think of a little state in the south called Texas. What?! There are rocks in Texas? Yes, world class rocks to be exact. It's an amazing place called Hueco Tanks (pronounced Way-Co) Not to be confused with Waco where some crazy things have happened. No, this place it awesome. Hueco is basically Spanish for holes. It's a volcanic rock formation that has ginourmous holes all over the rocks and such. Pretty sweet. From December to late February/early March, this place is the place to climb. If you do plan on making a trip, however, you need to make reservations pretty early in advance. To do this, google Hueco tanks and when you find the right link, it should bring you to a site that allows you to purchase a reservation. This whole reservation thing is a touchy subject to cover due to biased people and stupid laws. Moving on...

 

There are a few more places in the U.S. that are usually good winter places, Bishop, California and Joshua Tree California. In early spring, or during autumn, you can hit up Joes Valley, Utah or Moab, Utah. Yeah, yeah, I know. Utah? It's good, trust me.

 

Ok, now on for the International Glory-ness. I'll give you two of the greatest bouldering places world-wide: Squamish, British Columbia. This place is apparently awesome, if it's not raining. Good rounded boulders and one of the hardest Trad routes, ever. If you remember that word, awesome! If you don't, don't worry, the first part of this series is basically a quick dictionary of the different types of climbing and some basic words you should know, and it's archived so just look it up and you're good to go. The other amazing bouldering area is in France: Fontainebleau is it's name, and big slop-y holds is it's game. Some of the best climbs are there and it's super classic, meaning everything is old and it is the standard by which other problems are rated or graded. So, if you are ever in Canada or in France, you now know where you should climb. Granted, those are just two of the thousands of places to climb. I'm not saying climbing anywhere else is just plain stupid, because it isn't stupid. I want to travel the world and climb everywhere. I'm just giving you two of the top.

 

On to the Front Range area in Colorado. If you ever make it here to the front range, you're money, baby. So many places to go, so little space in this article to write. So, where to start…..Let's start off old school classic: Horsetooth Reservoir, right outside of Fort Collins, Colorado. The most classic climbing spot at Horsetooth is Rotary Park. Short stout problems, easy landings for the most part. However, almost everything is sand bagged, making it harder than it's graded. Super classic stuff.

 

Next up, let's go farther Northwest of Fort Collins up a canyon called the Poudre.  Go up the long windy road a ways and you'll find the Bog (it's pretty sparse, so you have to know where to look), the 420's (don't ask about the name this is a Christian magazine) which is hard to find as well, but the most popular) and farther up still you have the Gandolf area (usually better in the summer, because most other times it's covered in snow). If you want to climb in these areas it is best to find someone who has been there: due to the locale, they are pretty tough to find. Ok, let's move a little south of Fort Collins now to Loveland. On the South west side of the land of love there is another reservoir called Carter lake. The bouldering here is on the south east side of the lake (get directions first). This rock is similar to Horsetooth, but more crystalline and sharp. Overall, later or earlier in the season is best, because the area usually gets a lot of sun and it gets kind of windy. But if it does get too hot, jump in the lake. Carter has some classic stuff, not as classic as Horsetooth, but in my opinion it's better.

 

So, I'm going to let you all in on a little secret......shhhhhh. There is a national park in Colorado, maybe you have heard of it? It's called Rocky Mountain National Park (aka RMNP). If you do ever make it here, pack up your bouldering gear, drive up to the Bear Lake Trailhead and hike up to Lake Haiyaha (funny word) and you will find the best place in the entire state of Colorado to climb: Chaos! But, and I say this with care, this area is strictly sacred to us climbers. You must respect this area and be able to climb strong. Some of the hardest problems in the world are here, and there aren't any easy problems around.  To Climb Chaos you must respect Chaos and train for Chaos.

 

Ok, enough with just bouldering, this last area has mostly rope climbing. It's called Clear Creek and it's on the other side of Golden Colorado, where smart people go to school, maybe. This is actually another canyon with world class climbs throughout its twisting and turning walls. One of the hardest boulder problems is in this canyon as well. For this area you will definitely need either a guide book or someone who knows the area pretty well, as there are a lot of climbs and a lot of different areas.

 

So, now that you have the important lingo down and have been working on it at the gym, and you now know where to climb, get off your butt (after you read this entire magazine) and get your new friends to take a road trip to Hueco. If you can't do this, start planning trips to some of the areas I spoke about, go to the gym and bust out some one arms pull ups and impress those 'oh so hot' climbing girls. Remember this: I do not claim responsibility for you pulling a muscle or any other type of injury due to your one arms, and I (and this magazine) am not responsible for any injuries, or stupid stunts that you were involved in in trying to find, or climb at any one of the areas mentioned, or any other area for that fact. Climb smart, if you can't, find another sport to do, like chess).

 

The areas I have listed are not all the areas in the States or in the world, there are so many more areas out there, and more to be found. Don't do everything I say, heck, I don't even do everything I say. Get out and experience God's beauty in the rocks and climbs. Enjoy every minute of climbing. Don't get wrapped up in the whole, "I've gotta get sponsored" junk. I did, and it ruined climbing for me until I saw the truth.

 

Climb On.

 
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